The BSTN ‘Book Club’ is a series of in-depth book reviews about hand-picked publications from the ever-growing portfolio of books available at BSTN. Like dropping a cup of yogurt on the floor, this series is going all over the place, tackling a variety of topics from sports and traveling to collectibles and sneaker/fashion culture. Curating personal favorites of various BSTN Fam member as well as in-depth stories and stunning photography, the Book Club strives to deliver new favorites for your coffee-table as well as your book shelf.
Back in the mid-’80s to the early ’90s, the era often described as hip hop music’s Golden Age, one would think there was a plethora of matching hip hop clothing available for heads to grab. But before Walker Wear, Naughty Gear, Wu Wear, Fubu, Mecca and more black-owned brands took off from within the culture, there really were only two relevant spots that mattered:
Harlem’s very own Dapper Dan, known for luxury logo-heavy custom pieces. And the infamous Shirt Kings, whose colorful airbrushed t-shirts could be spotted on everyone from drug dealers, rappers to everyday people in New York’s streets. The book “Shirt Kings: Pioneers of Hip Hop Fashion” offers an intimate look at how these visionaries transitioned from tagging New York City subways to creating custom tees that became emblematic of hip hop culture.
Taking readers on a trip down memory lane to 1980s’ New York City where the fashion was loud, colorful, and filled with cartoon imagery, the book looks at the early days of streetwear through the lens of the Shirt Kings themselves: Written by Edwin ‘King Phade’ Sacasa and co-written by journalist Alain Ket, “Shirt Kings” chronicles how Phade alongside Shirt Kings Raffael ‘King Kasheme’ Avery and Clyde ‘Mighty Nike’ Harewood helped to create a new look for a new generation.
Back when dookie rope chains, fresh trainers, and custom clothing communicated power, and when customization and art reigned supreme in the Big Apple, the Shirt Kings had everyone from LL Cool J to drug dealers standing in line for their airbrushed tees, jackets and pants. And while it’s commonplace to mix pop- and subculture today, the Shirt Kings’ imagination and creativity created a blueprint that paved the way for today’s collab culture in streetwear and beyond.
We’re talking The Gremlins’ Gizmo with Cazal Shades. Pink Panther with gold chains. Mickey Mouse with a training suits. And more over-the-top cartoon characters, often equipped with little characteristic features of the respective customer. The more outlandish, the better. The Shirt Kings sampled pop culture and gave it an excessive-yet-authentic NY street twist that turned heads and – in hindsight – serve as time documents of desires and dreams.
“Shirt Kings brought the hip hop element into the clothes for real and integrated it, and it was the first time I saw hip hop culture completely merged with clothing.”
LL Cool J
Brimming with archival photographs, original designs, anecdotes, interviews and personal memorabilia that bring the Shirt Kings’ story to life, each page of “Shirt Kings: Pioneers of Hip Hop Fashion” exudes the vibrancy and rebellious energy of the period, making it not just a historical account but a celebration of creativity and resilience.
The book is an essential read for anyone interested in the intersection of art, fashion, and music, and also contextualizes the Shirt Kings’ legacy within the broader socio-political environment of the time. It’s a compelling tribute to the artists who helped shape the visual language of hip-hop culture when it was ground zero for street wear.
