In an age of streetwear heads connecting worldwide it may sound like a fairy tale to some, but during the mythical 1990s, streetwear was largely a regional phenomenon: And while brands like Stussy and Supreme were gaining traction in the underground scenes of Los Angeles and New York, a young guy nicknamed NIGO founded a streetwear brand in the Urahara district of Tokyo, Japan, in 1993. Little did Tomoaki Nagao, better known as NIGO, know that his brainchild A Bathing Ape would help to cultivate an unique streetwear movement.
Deeply influenced by American pop culture, hip-hop, and the vibrant, youthful energy of Tokyo’s streets, NIGO channeled his vision into A Bathing Ape, commonly known as BAPE, which resulted in a distinct aesthetic that blended bold graphics, camouflage patterns, and playful designs. Crafting little batches of BAPE tees with the help of graphic designer Shinichiro Nakamura aka Sk8thing, NIGO would first produce only some handful of pieces, set aside half of the stock for friends, and sell the rest in the NOWHERE shop:
Co-founded with Undercover’s Jun Takahashi, in 1993 in the Harajuku neighborhood, NOWHERE became a hub for Tokyo’s emerging streetwear scene. It was here that BAPE first gained its cult following, with its limited edition releases and exclusive nature creating an air of mystery and desirability around the brand. The shop’s success marked the beginning of BAPE’s rise, as it quickly became a staple in the wardrobes of Tokyo’s fashion-forward youth. The brand’s name itself, inspired by the Japanese idiom “a bathing ape in lukewarm water,” alluded to the complacency of the younger generation, while also playing on the idea of indulgence and luxury.
By the early 2000s, A Bathing Ape had already become a cultural phenomenon in Japan, known for its limited production runs and high-profile collaborations, which kept demand high and the brand elusive. However, it was in 2003 when Pharrell Williams – dominating MTV rotations and charts worldwide – began wearing BAPE, that the brand’s influence began to spread beyond Japan.
Pharrell’s embrace of BAPE was a turning point, as he introduced the brand to the U.S. (and to fans worldwide), where it quickly became a favorite among fellow musicians and fashion enthusiasts. Skateboard P’s visibility and status as a trendsetter helped BAPE explode in popularity in the United States, making it a symbol of exclusivity and style, worn by everyone from The Clipse to Kanye West, Lil’ Wayne and countless other style iconcs who were looking for the perfect blend of luxury and boldness.
A tasteful combination of new designs, remixes of archive pieces, as well as high-profile collabs with Comme des Garçons, Undefeated and others have maintained BAPE’s iconic status ever since – amongst long-time fans and a new generation of streetwear heads alike. And as streetwear has become increasingly intertwined with high fashion these days, the pioneering brand’s ability to adapt – while preserving its distinctive style – keeps on reminding people who did it all first.
A hand-picked selection of apparel, footwear and accessories by A Bathing Ape is available at BSTN now: Pick up your favorite pieces via the button below.
